The Trial of Mordor

Kia Ora!

I may have just had my best weekend in New Zealand so far; I hope I can capture the weekend events well enough here. I get the feeling this weekends stage had a reputation to keep, a trial to run and an amazing reward to offer. The stage was Tongariro Alpine Crossing, home to Mount Ngauruhoa (aka Mount Doom).

FUN FACTS: Mount Ngauruhoa is New Zealands most active volcano historically, as well as its newest volcano. There are a lot of volcano warnings about. But the most recent eruptions in the area were just two years ago from the northern slopes of Mount Tongariro. The Ketetahi hut is still closed due to damage from this eruption.

The weekend started as soon as I finished my exam on Friday night (which I think went well :-D). Hayley, Keven, Snorre and me were in the late car. The other seven either had driven or hitchhiked earlier in the day.

We didn't expect the journey to last quite as long as did it, but we were all very happy singing Queen, The Lion Sleeps Tonight and more, some down the phone to Scott whenever he called to ask where we were.

We finally (and thankfully) arrived at Tongariro Crossing at 2AM. It was pitch black and raining and we weren't completely sure we were in the right place, but we geared up anyway. The hut where the rest of the team lay was 2km in to the trail (the Mangatepopo Hut), so with two headlights between four we started the great walk: hardcore! Of course we weren't taking in the scenery at this stage, that would have to wait quite a while...

Map of the Tongariro Crossing

We were all pretty much ready to sleep by the time we arrived at the hut. But we did find Scott and Liam who had stayed up to welcome us. So kind :-)

The next morning we all shared a group breakfast and geared up. The rain was persistent, the wind noticeable and the visibility poor. But still, the fellowship of eleven companions set off on their quest.

The fellowship

Now unfortunately the number of photos taken on of the tramp this day (Saturday) is probably less than ten. There's a couple reasons for this. Firstly the visibility was so poor that there really wasn't anything to see. But it was the second reason that caused the most disruption to the planned niceties.

A wet start

 

This is what the visibility was like for the second half of the walk

About 9km in we crossed South Crater and began ascending the Red Crater. This was the only route to our next hut (the Oturere Hut) on the other side of the Mount. The weather had been getting progressively worse; the rain was heavier, the winds were stronger, the temperature plummeted and the visibility was poor. And for sections of the climb the path was no wider than 9 foot. The group had split into smaller groups and each tackled the Mount, aiming for the summit at 1886m. As we did so, the weather kept getting worse.

I have never been fearful of peoples safety whilst on a hike before, but that day got scary. Waterproofs were failing and the in the conditions the route was physically demanding. By the time we had descended Red Crater, me, Liam, Albe and Snorre were out in front. Snorre (who had already been feeling ill) and he was struggling in the conditions so the aim was to get to the hut. We had little idea how the others behind were fairing and we were also making plans to regroup at the hut then venture back out for the others.

Finally reaching the hut was amazing. Even better was a second group arriving five minutes later. Better still they had seen the final group and they arrived 15 minutes later. It was a type of happiness you can't buy and we were all feeling it!

When unpacking some of us realised the weather had claimed bag contents as well as the clothes we were wearing. Worst of which, the rain had made three of the sleeping bags unusable. And so this led to the buddy scheme- aka seven people, four sleeping bags. We were all bonding this weekend, that cannot be denied haha.

The rest of the day was spent in the hut, all sharing the gas fire, drying off, eating and just being very happy. After that day we were all just happy to have arrived safely and be out of the elements. Drying off clothes and equipment was also high on the agenda. Scott and Adele also did a great job preparing the Buritos.

Happy! Such great people

More happy faces

We also celebratated Liams birthday! He turned 20 on the day he conquered Mordor! The possibilities are limitless! Haha. Adele made the cake and carried it all day- what a star! It tasted great too. We also decorated the hut with banners and balloons. HAPPY BIRTHDAY, LIAM!

Happy birthday, Liam!

Later in the weekend we learned that the path was closed on this day. Maybe if we had known we would have revised our day plan. However David did check for warnings the previous day and there were no warnings at that time. Apparently the huts are supposed to receive warning also, as we were pretty cut off from the internet and phone signals. But still, I'm sure there aren't many people who can say they traveled across Mordor even though it was closed! I'm starting to think Frodo and Sam had it easy haha.

On Sunday the plan was to walk the same route back and so we were praying for a calmer day. And on the most part that's what we got. There was still a bit of rain, quite a big hail storm which turned the range white in 20 minutes, but there was also intermittent sun and clear skies! And with improved visibility it felt like a completely different walk. We could actually see Mount Doom, even though we had been at the base of it the day before and not even known. And we saw the Emerald Lakes, which we could only see individually when we were about 50ft away on the Saturday. It was time to bring out those cameras!

Mount Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom)

Steam/Sulpher naturally pouring out of the red crater

Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake

Sat at the top of the Red Crater where we found some naturally hot rocks

Liam and a birthday balloon to accompany his journey

Group photo- we were supposed to pull faces

Mount Ngauruhoe in the distance

 

 

The effect of 20 minutes of hail

The hailstorm hit after descending the Red Crater, just as we were deciding whether to climb Mount Doom or not. In the end it was decided that ten of us would start the ascent, each with different ambitions. The climb was steep, but the weather was merciful and just cloudy. By the time we reached the final climb (at which point it was snowing and the snow was a few inches deep), seven of us were making the final push. We overcame it all and conquered Mount Doom!

Final climb to the top of Mount Ngauruhoe

A view from the top, with Blue Lake in the center and Lake Taupo further in the distance

Mount Ngauruhoe conquered!

Snorre then became our hero with his harmonica.

There aren't really any good photos of the crater, but in the video when it swings left, the crater is being overlooked. It was probably 80 meters deep. An absolutely insane scale.

Across from this peak was a slightly smaller peak, but this was not covered in snow. Instead it was venting steam. We went to explore it and the steam was an ideal temperature in some areas and scolding hot in others. Still, nice to be warm on the top of a mountain :-)

And that was the tramping done. Although it sounds like a bad time, every single one of us loved this weekend. It's perhaps easier to enjoy in hindsight, but we had such an incredible experience.

On the journey home, we stopped by Lake Taupo to release our inner-carnivores. There were some impressive appetites, especially Liam and Snore who polished off most of a large family KFC bucket between them. A few of us had a KFC burger and a Dominoes each plus extras. A meal of Kings and so finely enjoyed!

Me and Mount Doom in the distance

The weekend had been demanding, but so much fun. Everybody was just amazing and fun to be around!

Snorre, Scott, Liam, Grant, Quentin, Adele, Keven, Hayley, David and Albe.

Thank you all for such an amazing weekend!

Kia Ora,

Ben